Reflections on Northern Ireland

Perhaps better than an espresso is starting off the day with some good humour and fun facts. Today, we will have just that as we head off to Northern Ireland to see Belfast, the Giant’s Causeway, Dunluce Castle, and a few views along the way. We are taking a tour with Wild Rover Tours, a small company I have used before, as each ride with them provides a new flavour of adventure. Our tour guide is the witty Maurice who has us laughing from the get go as we head out of Dublin. I have a feeling this will be a fantastic day.

If you didn’t know, Northern Ireland is a part of the United Kingdom, and on the same island as the Republic of Ireland. Despite Ramón’s concerns about needing our passports (and yes, we packed them for his assurance), you do not need your passport if you are crossing in from the Republic of Ireland on one of these guided day trips. As we are driving across the River Boyne, Maurice provides us some historical context, noting that tomorrow (July 12th) is the celebration of King William of Orange’s success at the Battle of the Boyne in 1690. Thus, there will be a lot of British patriotism on display, as well as other festivities underway. In addition to learning about general Irish history, Maurice walks over to each and everyone of us on the bus to ask us where we are from. Based on our response, he hands us a binder and a book. For us, we look through a binder on the history of Irishmen and women in Latin America and a book on different families in Ireland. ‘Twas very thoughtful and memorable of him to do.

Our first major stop is Belfast. Upon arrival, we actually change vehicles to take the Black Cab Tour. Our tour guide (not Maurice, and shall remain anonymous), who lived through the Troubles in Ireland, shows us around the divided neighbourhoods of Belfast. For more reading on The Troubles, I might suggest this article from History.com, and this series from PBS, though there are many more resources out there. This Belfast tour walks us through conflicts between the Protestant Unionists and the Catholic Nationalist population in the 20th century, how neighbourhoods continue to display their history on dividing walls, and how the country tries to navigate its history today. For Ramón and I, we keep thinking back to our trip to Berlin as Belfast has a similar atmosphere, yet this city has its dividing walls with juxtaposing imagery still standing. According to our cab tour guide, there is less prejudice between the Protestants and Catholics in the present day, especially in the city centre of Belfast, but skirmishes still occur by the dividing walls. As we pass through Clonard Monastery Catholic Church, Clonard Martyrs Memorial Garden, and the Peace Wall, there is an eerie feeling I cannot shake from this experience. Will there ever be true peace in Northern Ireland? Brotherhood, forgiveness, and peace between neighbours? I understand from our tour guide that the wall is still wanted by inhabitants as it’s useful to deter violence, but it is a spooky reminder of a terrible past that still remains and divides Northern Ireland.

As a disclaimer, I want to note that if you join this Wild Rover Tour to Northern Ireland, you do not have to go on the Black Cab Tour. If this is not your cup of tea, you can explore the Titanic Museum as Belfast is where the Titanic was built. We chose the Black Cab Tour experience as we strive to learn history and culture from the local population wherever we travel.

Back to the tours, once we had hopped out of the cab and used our break for a quick snack, we walk towards Maurice to reboard the bus to head to… Dunluce Castle! Oh my goodness, it is beautiful! In front of us are the majestic ruins of a castle, dating to the 16th-17th century, teetering on the edge of a cliff. For some, this castle looks familiar as the castle was a filming location in Game of Thrones for House Greyjoy. There is netting along the footbridge, and the stone walls are sturdy enough, but try not to fall over the edge. We look out past the North Atlantic Ocean with Scotland just peeping out in the background, and admire the azure blue water as it crashes on the rocks below. I try to capture how it feels right now being on the edge of the world for a later painting before we have to head off to our main event.

The site we are looking forward to next is the Giant’s Causeway. While I have visited this space once before, I firmly believe that the landscapes of Ireland will never grow old, and never cease to amaze me. The Giant’s Causeway is a fascinating geological wonder with its collection of black, dusty brown, and grey hexagonal basalt stone pillars formed roughly 60 million years ago. Due to its exceptional beauty and geological importance, the Giant’s Causeway is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

To get to the shore of this natural wonder, we must hike down a gentle sloping path, round the bend past the gorgeous cliffs on our left, and head straight towards the geometric pillars. Now at the rocks of the Giant’s Causeway, walking in this area feels almost like a 3-D game of hopscotch, with less hopping, but making sure I do not slip and fall. I did not pack my swimsuit or a change of clothes if I got wet. Moments like these, standing in an expanse of geological phenomenons, with cliffs rising far above me, I feel at peace. I am entranced by the lapping of waves on the rocks, and explore the mini seaweed pools created by the changing tide. Despite there being a schedule to adhere to, everything slows down at this moment. Can you believe there are places like this that exist in real life?

If you know me, you are probably thinking, what about lunch? First, we need to embark on the herculean task of hiking back up the cliff. Now, we could have taken the bus… but we decided it was much more rewarding to keep on our feet and slowly watch the landscape go by. Once at the top of the cliff, towards the entrance of the site, we head towards The Nook for a delicious bowl of seafood chowder. This dreamy soup revives my soul and energy, which I also paired with an iced Irish coffee. Lunch provided a well needed break from the sun and walking as we are actually in the middle of a heatwave. Lovely weather no doubt, but not the temperatures we were expecting. Post lunch, we explore the grounds a bit more, wandering up to the upper cliffs’ edges to look out at the rocky beach and water below. I am both a giant and an ant standing on the cliffs of this stunning landscape.

Eventually, we have to make our way back to the bus as it is a long drive back to Dublin. On the road, large fields, a multitude of cows, and the last shores of Northern Ireland bid us adieu. Maurice keeps the entertainment going with his knowledge of history, jokes, as well as some lovely suggestions of things to do back in Dublin. We actually take up one of his food recommendations and later try a tasty spot called the Hairy Lemon - 3 for 3 on creative establishment names. Overall, this day was filled with beautiful nature, educational moments, great food, and a yearning to learn more. I look forward to seeing what is in store for Northern Ireland in the future.

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I want to say a special thank you to Maurice and Wild Rover Tours as the whole experience was smooth, educational, and a craic. For you, the reader, you will hear a bit more about Wild Rover in the next blog as Ramón and I take another trip with the group to the Cliffs of Moher and Galway. Thanks for reading, and until next time.